Tux Terminology for the Groom-to-Be
Any man who has ever put on a suit, be it a tux or a business suit, likely knows that single-breasted means a suit with a single row of buttons down the middle. This has become the more popular choice and is appropriate for men of all body types. Single-breasted suits come in many styles, however, you can order a single-breasted tuxedo with either one button or two, with the choice typically depending on the groom’s height (taller grooms usually prefer two buttons, while shorter grooms like one button). Grooms can also order three- or four-button single-breasted tuxedos. These are generally only good for men who are particularly tall or thin, as larger men should avoid the three- or four-button tuxedo.
Double-breasted tuxedo is one with two rows of buttons as opposed to one. Typically, these work best with heftier grooms, as double-breasted suits tend to hide girth and appear more comfortable.
These go well with men of all statures. Cutaway refers to the front edges of the coat sloping diagonally from the waist and forming tails in the back. These are the most appropriate option for daytime weddings.
Tails are mainly reserved for ultraformal and traditional weddings. Featuring a severe break between front and back, tails should be avoided by shorter or stockier grooms.
High or Low Vest
High vests are typically good for taller men with longer torsos, as they extend up the torso higher than a regular vest and go well with a high-button coat. Low vests are more appropriate for most men and can be worn by men of all body types.
An extension of the coat collar, the peaked lapel is often a good choice for a shorter groom, as it typically makes the body appear longer and leaner.
Unlike a traditional collar, shawl collars do not come to a point, making this a difficult choice to make depending on body type. In general, a wider groom will want to stick with a wider shawl collar as a thin collar will make him look larger. A thin groom should stick with a thinner collar, as a wider one will have a cartoonish effect.
Mandarin or Banded Collar
Again, this depends on the body type. This is the collar type that appears to not be a collar at all, as it just wraps around the neck without any protruding points and is never worn with a necktie. For grooms with short or thick necks, this style should definitely be avoided, as it will appear as though you are bursting out of the top of your shirt. A more slender groom, though, can wear a mandarin collar.